Cozy Posts · Travel

December on the Banks of the Delaware

I overpacked for a journey to the past this weekend, but I have no regrets. Our adventure (and our little car) took us across the state to Stockton, NJ, where we decided to treat ourselves to a weekend of luxurious relaxation at The Woolverton Inn. The inn, housed in a pretty, stonework, manor house originally built as a two-story farmhouse in 1792, drew us in with its online photos that captured its elegant pastoral charm, hearty breakfasts, and cozy rooms with lavish soaking baths and in-room fireplaces.

I packed for the weekend, abandoning my typical restraint with the aim of being as cozy as possible while away from home. My suitcase graciously accommodated my uncharacteristically maximal decisions as I stuffed it full with cozy sweaters and flannels, warm loungewear, and my plush bathrobe. The zipper of my toiletry bag was tested with the addition of a large bottle of rosemary and mint bubble bath, and we even prepared an additional bag of sweet indulgences to make our retreat all the more enjoyable.

After loading up the car, we began our journey west in a gray drizzle, with a stop planned at Readington Brewery. The brewery did not disappoint and was replete with cozy warmth and rustic charm. We shared a flight of four beer samples, seated at a picnic table beside a Christmas tree, inside the brewery’s bright, spacious tasting room, sheltered from the chill and damp outside beneath its high, warm-toned wooden ceiling.

After closing out our tab, we continued on toward Stockton, the daylight fading from gray to muted periwinkle. We pulled into the cobbled and gravel driveway of the Woolverton at twilight and hurried across the stone entry path to the front door. We were greeted by a friendly staff member, Janet, who checked us in and led us on an informative tour of the inn and our room. Janet was very knowledgeable about the inn and its history and I was fascinated to learn that Julia Child and her husband, Paul, were married on the property’s stone patio back in 1946 when the manor house was still a private residence. Janet also explained that fresh baked cookies were put out in the dining room by three p.m. each afternoon and that a supply of coffee, tea, and cocoa were always available before directing our attention to a glass decanter of Dubliner Whiskey with Honey, available for guests to help themselves to a tipple or a nightcap if they were so inclined, which of course, we were.

Janet led us to our room, Amelia’s Suite, the original master suite from the time of the house’s earliest construction in 1792 and I immediately felt like a lucky house guest of the Honourable Phryne Fisher as my gaze wandered around, scanning the comfortable environs, thoughtfully decorated and enclosed with ornate Chinoiserie wallpaper in red and beige hues.

Janet left us and we settled into our room. I allowed my suitcase to breathe and explored our accommodations, taking a few photographs for this post. We went back downstairs to sample the mouthwatering homemade chocolate chip cookies, to choose our breakfast time for the next morning, and to pour ourselves each a taste of the whiskey. After relaxing in the room for a bit, we braved the rain and made the slightly harrowing drive across Center Bridge to the Pennsylvania side of the river, following the slightly flooded, dark, winding road to New Hope in search of dinner.

After spending unanticipated time figuring out parking for the municipal lot vs. the street (street is the way to go, if you can find a spot), we escaped the rain and opted to sit at the bar in a snug tavern called The Salt House where the bartender was very attentive and accommodating. We each ordered a whiskey cocktail, Mike opting for an Old Fashioned, and I for something called All The Buzz.

We sipped our drinks and ordered some hearty fare, taking our time, talking, eating, and drinking, elbow to elbow with the bar counter’s other patrons. After dinner, we explored the shining streets of New Hope in the rain, passing by the sleeping small businesses and shops. I pointed out to Mike Bucks County Playhouse where I used to participate in high school theater competitions and we chatted about how I was finding the town much more enjoyable this time around without the lurking stress of competition and sometimes a scarcity of friends to share the day with.

We returned to Stockton via the New Jersey side of the river and passed through the quaint village that was home to our weekend lodgings. The confines of Stockton were pretty and festive, some buildings and streets decorated with Christmas lights and decorations.

We headed back up to our suite at The Woolverton, looking forward to a luxurious soak in the bath after our adventures in the rain. I made sure to add a plentiful amount of bubbles to water as the tub filled and enjoyed the soothing fragrance of rosemary and mint and warm sips of Maker’s Mark while lounging in the hot bath, once again reminiscent of Kerry Greenwood’s 1920s Melbourne upper society lady detective, Miss Fisher.

The only item I forgot to bring that would have ensured a night of proper sleep during our stay was my pillow. I am, shall we say, a very particular sleeper. At home, I have a memory foam pillow and at The Woolverton, I did not. I think most normal people would be able to adjust to the change quite easily, but I had some difficulty. I am not sure if I could have requested a firmer pillow from the inn’s staff the next day, as I did not do so, but if you do plan to visit and are as particular a sleeper as I am, perhaps arrange with the inn’s staff ahead of time to accommodate such a preference or bring your own.

The next morning, we headed down to the enclosed, heated porch for our breakfast of piña colada scones, fresh fruit, eggs, potatoes, and salad. I helped myself to coffee in the dining room and we each enjoyed a glass of orange juice. We planned our day a bit better over our meal and decided to take a twenty-minute drive down the New Jersey bank of the Delaware to visit Washington Crossing State Park, making sure to say a quick hello to The Woolverton’s resident sheep in their paddock on the property on the way to our car.

Hello there!

We were one of three cars in the Visitor’s Center lot at the park and enjoyed perusing the museum’s collection of Revolutionary War artifacts and artwork depicting historical scenes from the era. We then took advantage of the dry weather and embarked on a short hike around the park’s muddy trails, starting out on the Continental Lane trail, following in the footsteps of the Continental Army as they began their historic 9-mile march to Trenton, NJ on December 26, 1776, after crossing the half frozen Delaware on Christmas Night, in pursuit of carrying out General Washington’s plan of a surprise attack on the Hessian mercenaries stationed in what would later become New Jersey’s capital.

Our hike took us down to the Ferry Site on the New Jersey side where a replica of of a wooden ferry was on display in the grass beside the whitewashed, stone Nelson House, which was not constructed yet at the time of Washington and the Continental Army’s historic crossing.

We hiked back to the car and continued our outdoor adventures, heading back up 29 to Lambertville. We wound our way up to the parking lot for Goat Hill Overlook, heeding the posted, yellow, warning signs advising that copperhead snakes had been sighted in the area and that they only attack if disturbed. I was a little bit afraid as we made our way up the path that was laden with copper-colored leaves, but we made our way unscathed to the viewpoint and were rewarded with a pretty, albeit foggy, view of the Delaware River and New Hope below.

We noticed our growing hunger as we headed back to the parking lot, careful not to trod on any leaf-sheathed copperheads, of which we saw none, and made our heading The Dubliner on the Delaware in New Hope for lunch and a couple of pints. I opted for a Half and Half – a combination of Harp and Guinness, which Mike reminded me to photograph for this post as well as a delicious lamb stew, which he did not.

Our day continued with a much needed nap at the Woolverton and then a festive trip to Peddler’s Village in Lahaska, PA to view the their attraction of one million holiday lights. I have never seen Peddler’s Village so crowded, and think perhaps it was due to Saturday night being the only night to escape the weekend’s rainy forecast. We perused a few of the shops and bought a couple of puzzles, forgoing a couple others that captured our attention, due to their staggering piece-count

We escaped the crowds of Peddler’s Village in search of dinner in Lambertville and opted to go to Under the Moon Cafe for some tapas. We ordered a couple of appetizers, a turkey vegetable soup special and some sliders with San Marzano tomato sauce as well as a Tapas Tower of skirt steak, shrimp, and Manchego with pears. We ended our delicious meal with a sweet tres leches cake before heading back to The Woolverton to repeat our rosemary mint soak and Maker’s Mark nightcap from the night before.

We ended our weekend at The Woolverton with breakfast in our suite. Mike opted for heuvos rancheros and I for coffee and French toast with berry compote and real maple syrup. We packed up our things and checked out of our suite, heading out into the rain to make our way home, taking with us the souvenir of the fond memories of our step back in time.